A good friend of mine and fellow Mainer pointed out a great article in the November issue of
Portland Monthly magazine in which Gordon Ramsay sings the praises of Maine lobster and bashes restaurants that serve counterfeit Maine lobster (an issue I wrote about in an earlier
post). Apparently, Ramsay caught out a New York restaraunt owner for passing off Canadian lobsters as Maine lobsters and went balistic on his TV show, "American Kitchen Nightmares."
I've not been able to find the video footage online, but the Portland Monthly article has a full transcript and I've included that below. In addition to explaining why Maine lobster has such a great reputation, Ramsay also talks about his favorite way to prepare Maine lobster - a clam bake with lobster, clams, mussles and corn on the cob. Enjoy!
Gordon Ramsay
Yes, but is it a Maine lobster?
Interview by Colin S. Sargent
Gordon Ramsay, dressed in a white chef’s jacket and dark trousers, leans down next to the head chef of the Black Pearl in New York City to have a peek at the struggling lobster shack’s inventory.
“They’re all from Maine?” he asks.
“These are, uh…Maine, some from Canada…”
“These look like Canadian lobsters to me,” says Ramsay.
“Yeah, these are Canadian.”
Ramsay looks over at his harried colleague, fresh from a disappointing dinner service, who has been forced into cost-cutting measures by the restaurant owners he doesn’t believe in.
“So the Canadian lobsters–they’re always a lot cheaper. I use the Canadian lobsters for raviolis and tagliatelles and spaghetti. They’re not Maine lobsters.”
Ramsay, star of Fox’s Kitchen Nightmares and Hell’s Kitchen, as well as British television station Channel 4’s The F Word and Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares, has been awarded 16 Michelin stars and has created successful restaurants around the world, including Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road in London and Gordon Ramsay at The London in New York City. A vocal advocate of fresh ingredients and local sourcing, Ramsay needs to confront one of the Black Pearl’s owners on the mislabeling.
“You told me about the passion for Maine lobster. Are you aware that the lobsters in your fridge are Canadian?” Ramsay stands with his arms folded, disgust beginning to well up in him like the lava under Vesuvius.
“Same waters, North Atlantic waters.”
“You’re telling me now that Canadian lobster, half the price of Maine lobster, has the same taste and flavor? There’s a big difference. I can’t get Maine lobsters!”
“That’s right, so they get them from Ca–”
Ramsay interrupts. “I’m using Canadian lobsters!”
The owner is back on his heels. “That’s right, that’s what they d–”
“But I don’t advertise them as Maine.”
“Tell me, is it a different animal?” the owner answers.
Ramsay is incredulous. “Maine…is a Canadian lobster for you?”
“Homarus Americanus–same animal, right?”
Ramsay shakes his head. “Holy f#¢&.”
“I’m asking you a question.”
Ramsay slows his voice, as if he’s speaking to a child. “What you’re trying to dictate to me is that you’re selling Maine lobster. They’re not from Maine.”
“Well, it comes from the same vendors.”
“Holy f#¢&.” Gordon draws out the epithet before he explodes, “The award-winning Maine lobster roll…is Canadian!”
We’re always delighted to speak to anyone whose admiration for Maine lobster matches ours. We got a chance to catch Gordon Ramsay in London, in between managing his 6 currently running television shows (not counting specials) and his 25 restaurants.
In Series Two, Episode Four of American Kitchen Nightmares, you visited the Black Pearl and had a spirited conversation with one of the owners, in which we were very pleased to see you share an appreciation for the magic of a Maine lobster worthy of a Mainer. For you, what’s so special about it?
Maine has a great reputation for lobster. Even though the lobster is in the same family as the Canadian lobster, there is something special about getting them from Maine. They are locally sourced and helping to maintain a tradition within the state.
While we Mainers like to think we’d always be able to tell the difference, is there a particular characteristic that tips you off to when you’re being served counterfeit Maine lobster?
Both the Canadian and Maine lobster are in the same family–they are the same animal–but the most obvious difference is the size and quality of the meat.
Nobody would really take a New York Strip when they’d ordered veal either, and that’s the same animal as well. Why would someone use Canadian lobster in restaurant-scale operations?
The price of the lobster varies with the seasons. Most suppliers will substitute with Canadian lobsters when there is a shortage of Maine lobster. During December and January, few lobsters come out of Maine, and there are more available from Canada.
How often have you suspected you might be getting Canadian lobster dressed as Maine?
It is a common practice, as it can be difficult to tell the difference. Using a good supplier that you have a good working relationship with probably helps prevent this!
As a chef who’s clearly shown how passionate he is about real food and real ingredients, what’s your opinion of food fraud? Does it make a difference if the customer never knows?
Of course! When a customer orders a meal, they expect what they see on the menu. Substituting an ingredient or using a lower-end product is not an option. I use the best ingredients wherever available–it is the basis to a great meal.
We understand you were in Maine for three months in the not-too-distant past. What was the best meal you had in a Maine restaurant while you were here?
It was dinner at a restaurant called One Dock at the Kennebunkport Inn.
Oh, that must have been very recently, since they’ve only had the new menu and the name “One Dock” since the end of June 2009. What were you doing here?
I’d surf, as I love Maine’s coastline. It’s stunning.
Particularly at Gooch’s Beach. What do you think of the lobster advocates who claim it’s morally wrong to put a live lobster into a boiling pot?
Putting a lobster straight into boiling water is one of the fastest and more humane ways of killing it. This may not seem right to some people.
Some ‘lobster virgins’ can be afraid of the appearance of, and the experience of, eating a lobster. Do you have any recommendations for helping them past this?
There are many different ways to cook and eat lobster. Maybe at first not showing them the whole body, encouraging them to help you prepare them, and gradually introducing them to the legs and claws. Avoid the green stuff!
Since I’ve got this opportunity, I’ve got to ask this question. What New England meal would you recommend to cook for a hot date?
You can’t go wrong with a clam bake–with lobster, clams, mussels, and corn on the cob.
Sounds like it would go great with beer and conversation. We’ve seen so many variants on the lobster roll, including lemon juice and curry. Have you got a personal twist on the famous Maine sandwich you’d be willing to share with us?
It has to be simple! Lobster, mayo, celery on grilled hot dog roll with butter…
And the lobster has to be from Maine.
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